Distance: 13km

Duration: 3 hours (with lots of photo stops)

Difficulty: Easy-Moderate (apart from the tunnels)

Desirability: A fun first hike but not the coolest, very suburban

Description: Our very first hike in Madeira, chosen for its proximity to our lovely Airbnb in Funchal.  We were able to join the well-marked Levada dos Piornais by going down the side street by our accommodation in the Sao Martinho area of the city but it can be started from the centre of Funchal (at the Barreiros stadium).

The walk takes you through loads of banana plantations, past people's houses, and eventually into the valley.  The walk ways are narrow in parts and you are often on an unguarded edge so wouldn't recommend it if you're not a fan of heights.  There is a section where you walk on the main road (past the Quebradas Supermercado) so take care. 

We absolutely loved navigating the wee tunnels (no head torch needed) but at nearly 6ft I did have to bend down a lot! After the tunnels the walk feels more remote / less suburban as you get deeper into the valley.  The trail ends at a locked gate signalling for you to turn round are retrace your steps.

What we wore

Trail shoes, three-quarter length hiking trousers, technical t-shirts, sun cream.  We had a long-sleeved layer with us too, oh and sun screen. We did the hike in early February. 

What we ate

Snack was a big apple each, lunch was a bagel & hummus with spinach leaves & cherry tomatoes, and a cereal bar.  On the return leg we popped into 1a Estacao Cafe for a coffee and obligatory pastel de nata - a cheap local place off the beaten track.

How we felt

Happy to experience our first levada after reading so much about them, ecstatic to be walking in the sunshine, particularly in the knowledge of the cold grey weather back home, delighted to find the local cafe on the way back.

Check out our Instagram for some footage of this walk and all the other places we've visited!